DUSHANBE, Tajikistan -- Its snow-capped peaks, crystal-clear
lakes and pristine landscapes could put Tajikistan on par with pastoral
hot spots in New Zealand or Switzerland. However, lingering Soviet-era paranoia and a dizzying array of as many as 11
permits required for travelers wishing to visit, set against a backdrop
of a public infrastructure that could only kindly be called crumbling,
make it unlikely that this Central Asian nation will be vying for the
title of top tourist destination anytime soon.
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DUSHANBE, Tajikistan -- Statues of V.I. Lenin are everywhere in this remote corner of the former Soviet empire.
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DUSHANBE, Tajikistan -- The author's camera catches a corrupt cop in the act of taking a bribe, a routine occurrence in Tajikistan's capital.
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We were sitting in her office overlooking the rust-colored
foothills of the Hindu Kush, Zakia Zaki speaking Persian slow enough
for me to follow. A man brought in mugs of black tea and joined us.
Zaki was the manager of the radio station I was visiting in Jabul
Saraj, at the mouth to the mythic Panjshir valley, then half a day's
drive north of Kabul. The gentleman was her deputy. It was a first: I had never seen a man serve a woman tea in Afghanistan. But I knew at the time that Zaki was a special woman. more